March 31, 2015

April 1 1055 VN Time

OK, a plan for moving north is in motion.  After one more night in Hoi An, we take a shuttle tomorrow  3.5 hours to Hue, where we'll meet with Khanh of Hearts for Hue. After two nights in Hue, it's off to Dong Ha, just south of Nhi Ha, for two nights. Tam, from Global Community Service Foundation, has been kind enough to offer to book our Dong Ha hotel room. He is aware of a South Vietnamese soldier in Dong Ha who has extensive knowledge of my unit's participation in the fighting in and around Nhi Ha.  My plan is to hire a car, meet with the referenced soldier, and (with heavy feet) return to Nhi Ha. After meeting with Captain Tha, I wanted to skip returning to that spot. But,  it's going to happen.

Hot & humid here….missing Alaska weather.

Neil


April 1 0839 VN Time

It's morning, April 1. Danny is out and about looking for coffee. Thong emailed yesterday to say that he'll be here at 0900 so that we can make a plan for my return to Hoi An, which should be no later than April 6.  Hoi An is the best base for visiting those we're trying to help. I now think that I need four nights here, which gives me three full days with The, Thua, and Duong. One way or another, I'll have a car/driver and interpreter, hopefully Thong.  I termed him "damn guide" in 2010 and it has stuck. But, in reality, he is the best damn guide in all of Vietnam…can't imagine anyone better. Moreover, he's a good friend and honest, sincere person. Great guy to be around. Anyway, my hope is to have a low-profile, electric cart for Duong before leaving this area. Khanh, of Hearts for Hue, is working on locating one. I appreciate the fact that he has been of great help even though very busy as Chairman of Hearts for Hue. Duong uses his P.E.T cart, which he obtained through the efforts of Fred Grimm of D.O.V.E.  Fund.  But, Duong is weak and can't go very far with the hand-driven cart. So, that's why we're looking into an electric unit, which he can easily access even with no legs.

Danny is committed to heading north tomorrow, but I'm leaning towards leaving for Danang today. 
After speaking with Thong in about 30 minutes, I'll have a better idea as to which way to go. Between now and the return to Hoi An approx April 6, I'll be trying to figure out what items to take to The, Duong, and Thua and ways that I can improve their lives.  They won't ask for anything, so you have to really pry. It's imperative that I feel good about things upon departure.  Everything else is peripheral.  Other than the meeting with Captain Tha, I have no video with the camcorder purchased specifically for this trip.  But, that situation I will remedy during the upcoming three days of visits with The, Thua, and Duong. 

OK, must head down to see if Thong has arrived. 

Neil 


March 30, 2015

Mar 31 1147 VN Time

I have re-read my "Meeting with the Enemy" post, observing multiple typos and other oversights.  My excuse is that I didn't have it in me to proof it before publishing. Anyway, now it's in better shape.

Neil

Mar 31 0923 VN Time

Being stuck in Hoi An and not out in the rural hamlet with "my people" bothers me. If there's a "next time", I will have a full-time guide/interpreter and dedicated driver.  That way, I can be where I want to be when I want to be there.  To me, this isn't a vacation, it's all about accomplishing the mission. For now, though, here I sit. Frustrating.

Vietnam is abuzz with celebration now…40 years since the fall of Saigon.

Neil

March 31 0844 VN Time

Here are some photos of the meeting with Captain Tha, including an image of his personal map of the Nhi Ha battle of May 6, 1968. Shown is where he found my platoon comrade, Bill Baird, in the battle's aftermath. Jones Creek is on the left and where his men saw Desmond. These photos are all from my camera, but most images taken that day were with Danny's.  But, he hasn't uploaded any. I also have video of most of the meeting and will make that available as soon as I can figure out how to create a
link.   Neil















March 30 2232 VN Time

Quick update. I decided to purchase a new bicycle yesterday afternoon, then arranged for a van/driver for us to transport it to The's house today…for her great grandchildren. Well, when we picked up the bike at 0800 today, I decided to grab a second one for Thua's grandkids. Then it was off for the long drive to The's and Thua's houses….remote, narrow paths.  I also brought along a stash of Oreos for the kids. Everyone was surprised and thrilled….great feeling seeing the excitement in the kids' faces. Phung, The's son, took me to see Son's grave and their "old" house on his motorbike. It appeared as if nobody has lived there for 10 years. The heat and humidity takes its toll. I'm working on getting a low-profile electric cart for Duong. Both Duong and The are so unassuming and appreciative…refreshing.
The stated that I'm "like a son" to her. What a sweetie….94 years old. Two days ago, The and Duong received their new rice cookers…very neat.

Still reeling from the Mar 26 "reunion" with Captain Tha. It's bedtime here in Hoi An, but I'll be working on plans for the return visits to see The, Duong, and Thua tomorrow. It's imperative that I tend to their needs while I'm here. That is my reason for being here and my focus. Danny must be up early for a day trip to My Son, a neat historic site. Will write more later.

Neil

















March 28, 2015

March 28 2318 VN Time

March 28th 10pm
Woke up to another day of hard rain.  We stayed overnight at the Pacific Hotel in Danang.  City of one million, home of a US airbase during the war and the site where the "first landing" of US soldiers in Vietnam occurred to guard that airbase.  This weekend will be the 40th anniversary of liberating Danang.  Supposed to be a big fireworks celebration.  The flag of Vietnam flies everywhere, a proud people recovering and building a future.  The war may have ended 40 years ago, but effects are still apparent in the eyes and bodies of the young and old.  We ended the day in Hoi An where there was a small parade of decorated bicycles and motorbikes.

This morning we traveled by van to a small village area west of Tam Ky to visit The, so that Neil could speak with her, check on how she was doing and deliver her supplies and some financial support.  Currently The lives with her son; she is 93 years old.  Her daughter, Son who died a few years ago, was aided by Neil in 1968 when she was only 12 years old after Neil saw that she had a traumatic  war injury to her left leg.  This prompting him to carry her to get medical help from the US.  Only a mother's love and care for her daughter could have spawned the loving, warm and appreciative glowing smile that I saw when she greeted Neil.  It is amazing to see such deep gratitude originate from the tragedy of war.  It gives one hope.

We also visited Duong, a south Vietnam soldier who served with the 196th.  He lost both legs above the knee in 1971 and has lived alone since.  Neil had previously helped get his home fixed up and provided carts for him to move around in.  I could also see a deep gracious reverence radiate from his face when he expressed his appreciation to Neil  for the gifts that made his hard life better.  Both of these visits were powerful and I feel fortunate to have had the opportunity to share them with Neil.      

March 27, 2015

March 28 0810 VN Time "Meeting the Enemy"


MEETING THE ENEMY

1968 is a year that is unquestionably and perpetually locked into my memory, overriding most every other competing stimulus.  Events of the day before yesterday brought the horrors into crystal-sharp focus, providing previously unknown details that are, in retrospect, possibly better left undiscovered.  Why allow the risk of being subjected to revelations about such a horribly traumatic, torturing, and life-altering event, the memory of which  is enduringly haunting?  I have no good answer.

During the past week, I have been running hot and cold as to whether or not to meet with an ex-NVA (North Vietnamese Army) officer who fought against my unit on the DMZ in May 1968. The battle, forever etched in the minds of those soldiers who fought it, has been chronicled in “Magnificent Bastards”  (Keith Nolan) and appeared in “Vietnam Magazine” as an article entitled “Nightmare Battle of Nhi Ha”.  Some months ago, Cau, visiting relatives at Nhi Ha, noticed an under-construction monument to a most significant May 6 battle.  He managed to obtain the phone number of Mr. Tha, the officer who commanded the NVA force that fateful day.  Khanh, of Hearts for Hue, called Mr. Tha, who expressed an interest in meeting me. The wheels were turning and decision time had arrived. Apprehensive and scared, I nevertheless elected to leap into that roiling cauldron.  Although balking at the suggestion of a filming crew from Vietnam National Defense Television, the OK was given for the presence of a newspaper reporter. 

It was 0900 March 26 . Mr Tha, a fit 87 year-old gentlemen, met us with a warm smile and firm handshake.   His grandson, most personable and quite fluent in English, was present to serve as interpreter.  With Danny documenting via video and camera, Captain Tha and I waded into discussion of that May 6 engagement, which involved 2nd and 3rd platoon  from my company, A 3/21 196th Light Infantry.  1st platoon had been held in reserve. 

Lacking the stamina to dive too deeply in this writing, I’ll nevertheless provide scattered details of this meeting with my former enemy and provide some explanatory background.  Figures are tough to recall with precision, but should be accurate or very close thereto.

The NVA had mustered the largest force ever assembled for a battle during the entire war with a goal of capturing the Marine base at Dong Ha.  Rushed north to reinforce the Marines, my unit arrived May 1.  From then until the subject engagement, of which Mr. Tha and I share commonality, it had been four days of steady fighting. On the afternoon of May 6, Co. A’s 2nd platoon, under Lt. Smith, and 3rd platoon, led by Lt. Kimball, began their patrol northward from our hastily-dug entrenchments towards the DMZ. My understanding is that the intended goal was recon with the idea of determining the location the NVA force without locking into a sustained engagement.  While setting up for the patrol, there was what seemed at the time to be an insignificant “adjustment” within 2nd platoon.  In my recollection, the intention was for my squad, led by Sgt. Haddock, to serve as our platoon’s point element.  I was to be point man.  However, as it turned out, my squad ended up on the left flank. It was Bill Baird who then became point man for the lead squad.  The remaining rifle squad set up on the right flank. With the flanking squads “dropped back” from the lead squad, the result is a wedge formation. The machine gun squad and CP would be in the center of this wedge. This is all from memory, so I beg for accuracy.  Regardless, it is safe to say that confusion existed as to which squad would walk point. 3rd platoon moved out in similar formation on our right with 1st platoon behind in reserve.

OK, having provided a brief overview, it’s time to get back to Mr. Tha’s house, where we’re sitting side by side on a wicker sofa.  Photos, newspaper articles, documents, the “Nightmare Battle of Nhi Article”,  and a personalized “Magnificent Bastards” were presented as gifts. “To Mr. Tha, a Brave Soldier; Respected Foe in 1968, Respected Friend Today”.

I learned that on May 6 Captain Tha’s force of about 300 men had entrenched at a point where he had anticipated our arrival. Moving north, as described above, the approximately 70 men from my company could hardly imagine the meat grinder into which they were walking. All hell broke loose and, with an entrenched enemy outnumbering our exposed troops about 4 to 1, it was a disaster that will not be detailed by me.  Of significance, though, was the “switch” that placed Bill Baird as point for the lead squad.  That adjustment allowed my squad, now on the platoon’s left flank, to scramble behind the bank of Jones Creek, the only reasonable cover from the withering enemy fire.  The chapter in “Magnificent Bastards” chronicling this battle is accurately entitled “Alpha Annihilated”.  Although nineteen wounded men were extracted during withdrawal, fourteen comrades, one being Bill Baird, were left on the battlefield as I and other survivors finally broke off the engagement and somehow escaped the NVA's “kill zone”. It was an indescribably horrific ordeal. That night, I was one of four men ordered to serve on an LP (listening post) far out from our entrenchments.  The purpose was to spot and report enemy troop movement so as to alert our main force of an impending attack. During the night, we heard the words, “help me” coming from what seemed to be Jones Creek. With no established pass codes audible, we considered this an NVA trick and called in artillery, which silenced the voice. Surprisingly, the NVA did not attack that night. Following my LP’s pre-dawn arrival back at the main force, a figure appeared in the distance coming up from Jones Creek. It turned out to be Desmond, one of the men who had been left on the field of battle. He said that he had been lying beside Bill Baird, who was wounded and couldn’t move.  He indicated that he had remained concealed until near darkness, then stood up and slowly walked away to the creek. He related that, en route to the spot where he tried to get the attention of my LP, he killed two NVA before losing his rifle. He had left the wounded Baird, who was surrounded by our dead and dying comrades.  Another of the fourteen, Joe DeMare, made it back to our perimeter. As I recall, he said that he had played dead when an NVA rolled him over, then crawled back all the way to our unit’s position. His bloody knees served as evidence. It wasn’t until  May 8 that we managed to get back to recover our bloated, maggot-riddled bodies, which had been in the hot sun for two days. The condition of our soldiers’ corpses and the stench created an unforgettably sickening situation. We loaded the bodies into Marine otters and headed back to our entrenched position. I, along with one other survivor, was asked to don gas masks, climb into the otter, and unload the bodies. It was a gruesome and traumatic task.  Of the fourteen men left on the field of battle, Desmond and DeMare managed to make it back on their own. Eleven bodies were recovered May 8.  Helping identify and tag the dead, I objected to one body being incorrectly tagged as Baird.  Please understand that the condition of the bodies made ID very difficult. When the process was completed, it was determined that Bill Baird was missing….MIA.  Bill finally made it home in 1973, when the POW’s were released.  Until the names of those returning appeared in the newspaper, I had assumed that he was dead.  I was shocked. Upon Baird’s arrival at Valley Forge for debriefing, I managed to engage in a lengthy phone conversation with him. The call was recorded by the government. I’ll just say that he was understandably bitter and harbored extreme animosity for Desmond, the man who abandoned him.  And now reflect back to the confusion in formation that caused Baird’s squad to be point, which afforded my squad the cover of Jones Creek.

Now we’re back to Mr. Tha to and I sitting side by side at his house.  Reviewing his diagram of the battle, my eyes immediately noticed the name of one man…..Bill Baird. Mr. Tha had marked the spot where he found him.  Back and forth via the interpretive skills of his grandson, we talked about battle particulars. His interest in a US soldier that he discovered as darkness neared the eve of May 6 was most evident.  “Who was this man”, he queried repeatedly. I was admittedly somewhat confused.  Mr. Tha said that his men had found a surviving soldier in the creek, trying to escape. They were about to eliminate him with rifle fire when Captain Tha ordered them not to shoot. When I asked why he would make such an order, his response was that the man was unarmed (rifle assumed dropped in the creek) and trying to escape. He felt letting him go to be the “right” thing to do. Then it hit me like a brick wall….Desmond.  After being spared by Captain Tha, Desmond worked his way along the creek until near my LP. The story about walking from the battlefield under cover of darkness and killing two NVA en route is somewhat conflicting, though, with Mr. Tha’s account. He says that he has always wanted to learn the identity of the US soldier that he had allowed to escape and to someday meet him.  His detailed account of Bill Baird and the spared soldier, Desmond, was mentally overwhelming.

Our meeting continued with conversation regarding various aspects of the battle.  Mr. Tha asked, at one point, if we had trouble identifying our bodies. My response was that I recall it involving difficulty, but we managed.  He then referenced metal ID tags that US soldiers wear. “Dog tag”, I responded.  Well, it seems that he had ordered his men not to remove the tags from our bodies.  He pulled out his helmet, worn during the battle, and placed in on his head.  When he pulled out a safety razor, I had an idea what was coming next.  According to Mr. Tha, the razor was taken from the body of one of our dead. It had belonged to Lt. Kimball, 3rd platoon leader.  Mr Tha would like me to locate Kimball’s family, asking that they meet with him in Vietnam to retrieve the razor. I promised to try. My effort to secure the razor for transport to the US was unsuccessful. Mr. Tha’s forces lost 56 killed May 6, all of whom were hastily buried nearby. Following the war’s end in 1975, he took it upon himself to locate and exhume the bodies of all of his May 6 dead for proper reburial of the remains. In fact, he did so with all KIA’s that died under his command during the war….570 soldiers in all.  Amazingly, this hardened warrior turned to a life of healing following the war, acquiring an education in medicine and becoming a physician. From there, he set to work helping those in need, never accepting pay.  

Throughout our three-hour meeting, Danny was dutifully tending to his volunteer video/camera task.  A uniformed military man, the newspaper reporter, and another man of unknown significance were also present. These three were aggressively jotting notes.  Just before the meeting’s end, Mr. Tha’s son, the mayor of Nha Trang (pop 200,0000) appeared with his wife. Following group photos and Mr. Tha’s presentation of gifts to Danny and me, it was time to part. 

My impression is that my former foe is a compassionate, principled, and caring man.  He expressed regret and sympathy to families of the US soldiers killed May 6. Wading through the memories was as tough for him as it was for me.  Regardless of NVA or US allegiance, ground combat in Vietnam was brutal. 

TODAY

In about an hour, Danny and I are off for a long ride to visit The, Duong, and (hopefully) Thua. What we don't accomplish today, we'll tackle a later day.  Thong, (guide from 2010 & 2011) and Khanh (Hearts for Hue) will be with us. This is shaping up to be another memorable day in Vietnam.

Neil

March 27 2209 VN Time

Rail departure from Nha Trang was at 0500 with arrival in Danang at 1420. Thong, my guide from 2010 & 2011, met us at the station. Tonight we're at a hotel near Thong's house, but depart in the AM to visit Duong & The. Yesterday was more intense than I ever imagined it could be. During today's train trip, I just couldn't hold it all in and started chronicling the event with hopes of getting it out tomorrow. A tough one.  Back tomorrow.

Neil

March 25, 2015

March 25 2141 VN Time

As Danny mentioned, today involved riding The Reunification Railway from Saigon to Nha Trang, where tomorrow AM we meet with Col. Tha, commander the NVA battalion that fought against my company on the DMZ in May '68. I have photos, newspaper articles, and more info to present to my former foe. I'm nervous as hell about the meeting…the old can of worms deal.

Today's train ride involved a really ancient passenger car, but all worked out well. Quite a variety of scenery. Passing through Cam Ranh Bay was nostalgic, as that was my point of departure for the US in Feb '69.  In two days, we'll be on the 0500 train to Danang.

Well, threading one's way through the blur of countless motorbikes can be a puckering experience. Today, though, I ended up on the receiving end of one of the machines. Ouch. Bike on the ground, girl winching in pain, and old Neil feeling really foolish. Anyway, I righted the bike while a fellow sort of "handled" things. I think that the girl might have knocked her foot a bit, but otherwise seemed OK. My left calf hurts some…could have been worse.

Danny is out getting some grub this evening, but I just felt like hanging in the room. Nha Trang, by the way, has a very nice beach…considered the best in Vietnam.

To be continued….Neil




March 25 2037 VN Time

March 25th 7:30pm  Nha Trang.  Neil and I caught the 6am train from HCMC to Nha Trang this morning.  Arrived around 1:20pm.  Soft seats.  Passenger car #7 with 64 in our car and working aircon. Assigned seats but we moved around as space opened up.   Two other 60ish western traveling couples.  Only 4 or 5 station stops in route.  It is the dry season!  Hot sunny.

Highly enjoyable day of picturesque travel through a mixture of settlement/developmment-urban sprawl, brown barren leafless treed landscapes, colorful burial shrine/cemetery patches and colorful metal roofed concrete dwellings, extensively cultivated lands, rice fields, small, medium and large sized in various stages of growth from wet green and being flooded to brown harvested stubbles with cattle and buffalo grazing, a few herded domestic flocks of ducks searching for rice grains; some fields were actively being harvested with workers bagging rice.   Small towns/villages, granite like boulder hills, flowering lily ponds, few ocean views, numerous small agroforestry-wood lots, some appear to be sandalwood and eucalyptus, locally numerous fields of tapioca, sugar cane and Aloe(?) a few avocado and mango orchards, sheep, taro patches, bananas especially on recently deforested hill slopes.  Lots of egrets.   Some small scale intensive garden patches of an unknown green, passion fruit.  Ongoing construction projects for roads, bridges, buildings, quarries and canals.  Most river crossings were areas heavily impacted-disturbed and manipulated.   A busy heavily utilized landscape with pervasive evidence of occupancy.   

March 24, 2015

March 24 2259 VN Time

March 24 10pm
A day of street walking around HCMC after breakfast at Lan-Lan2, our hotel.  Hot and sunny.  Took a map and went north to the botanical garden - zoo.  Gibbons (?) were the best.  Saw a few new birds in the tree canopy at the botanical garden; it is amazing how few birds there are elsewhere around the city, only sparrows and rock pigeons.   Had tea and coffee at a small cafe which Neil probably won't do again.  The iced coffee was great but Neil now recognizes that the ice tea was probably not a good choice.

Crossed over a few tributaries of the Saigon River.  Explored some local neighborhoods.  Wandered through a meat - fish market with live and dead seafood.  Eels, catfish, many other fish, (some swimming in small basins) squid, frogs, most everything one would want for an asian seafood dinner.  Visually and aromatically stimulating!  Chickens being plucked and washed/scrubbed/cleaned on the sidewalk.  Lots of fruits and vegetables.   When we started to return back towards the hotel, we crossed over an unfinished bridge and climbed down a rebar ladder entering the back side of what appeared to be abandoned warehouse shipyard area along the Saigon River.  It was around noon so we only encountered few folks on mopeds until exiting through the gated access point along the river front.  Won't go back there again!  We got assimulated back into the crowds.  Had a few beers mid day to rehydrate, Saigon Green and Tiger Lager.  Shared and spoke about our experiences with the NPS;   that makes for fun talk and drink!!  Regrouped at the Lan-Lan and read more of the Pentagon Papers before heading out for an evening walkabout.  Had a great bowl of beef noodle soup and dish of sticky beef rice with a passion fruit drink.   Food is tasty!!



March 23, 2015

March 23 2251 VN Time

March 23rd.  Neil and I wandered around HCMC today.  Lost at times, but enjoyed the street environs, especially away from the busier tourist areas.  Some areas are very modern and western.  Lots of mopeds, no, actually more than a lot.  We talked about setting up Neil's video to record the traffic flow at what appears to be a typical intersection.  It is a city full of people on the sidewalks and side alleys.  Traffic travels slowly, so all one needs to do to cross the street is walk slowly across and allow for oncoming vehicles to steer around you and avoid you, hopefully.  As Neil says, walk don't run.  Folks are friendly, streets are busy and crowded with lots of sidewalk food stands and small stores with just about everything one could need or want.  Beer and coffee are cheap and food is tasty, especially the noodle soups.

Walked by the site where the SVN "surrendered" to the NVA/VC army in Saigon during 1975; it was where the tanks crashed the palace gates/grounds.  We went to the War Museum.   I found the journalist collection of war images amazing, powerful and emotionally and mentally exhausting/draining.  Neil's recollections are surreal; I am intrigued by and appreciate his openness, descriptions and explanations.   

March 23 2035 VN Time

Danny and I stayed busy today, that's for sure. Our first effort was to work our way to the train station for the purpose of purchasing tickets. Following that, we spent a couple hours at the War Remnants Museum, formerly entitled War Crimes Museum. It as a hot one at 98F (36.7C). Tomorrow's plans haven't solidified, but we'll figure out something…many options. We both like the "fringe" areas, which are removed from the tourist district. We have ended up being the only "outsiders" around in some cases…great way to go. Street food is phenomenal.

Neil

March 21, 2015

March 22 0903 VN Time

0900

Forgot to mention that I corralled my limited computer skills in an effort to align the postings to Vietnam time, thereby ensuring chronological order.

Neil

March 22 0858 VN Time

Mar 22, 2015  0845

Assuming an on-time flight and smooth transition through customs, Danny should be popping in at the hotel around 1400 hrs. Then I suppose that we'll hit the street in short order.

Yesterday was spent walking around the immediate area just to see what might be interesting. The huge Ben Thanh Market is a city block, teeming with people, containing a sea of crowded vendors offering a myriad of goods. It's an amazing place to experience.

Dinner last night was from a woman with a little rolling cart…a sub-like loaf of bread loaded with roasted meat, vegetables, and other "stuff". Absolutely beyond delicious….and about $ .90. The best, and cheapest, food is on the street. I need to find her again.

Ok, that's it for now.  I'm eagerly awaiting the other participant in this adventure through Vietnam. Stay tuned… a surprise lies ahead.

Neil

March 20, 2015

March 21 1250 VN Time

March 20  1250 Hrs.
Just arrived in Saigon at 1030 hours today and have settled into the hotel, which is one block from the Presidential Palace.  Remember the image of the NVA tank knocking down the gate during the fall of Saigon in '75? Danny flies in Sunday noon.   Hitting the street now for something cold to drink...

Neil

March 21 0823 VN Time

March 21 0815 Hours

Breakfast buffet was spacious and tasty.  One must learn control, which is not my strong suit. Anyway, it looks like we should expect highs in the 95-98F (35-36.7C) range for the next two weeks….not used to such heat. A cold beer now and again might be in order.  Will hit the street soon….

Neil

March 21 0400 VN Time

March 21 0340 Hours

Well, this old boy's internal clock is all out of whack, so here I am at 0340 hours.  The effort to find a cold beverage yesterday afternoon was successful. There are many places from which to choose, but my selection was a neat little place one minute away where I could relax (seems like forever since that has happened), have a Saigon beer, and look over the busy little street. With a temp of 86F, I ended up consuming multiple bottles of beer. The menu looked good, so I tried the seafood spring rolls at just $1….delicious. Then came a huge plate of rice with vegetables and seafood…just $2 or so. If you eat at a "locals" spot, though, it's easy to fill up for "peanuts". At 0600 the hotel's well-reviewed breakfast buffet, which is included in the room price, begins. I'll make sure to partake each day. Nearby there is much to see… Ben Thanh market (very neat), War Remnants Museum, Independence Palace, Woman's Museum, Revolutionary Museum, Notre Dame Cathedral, Ho Chi Minh Museum…all walking distance. I'll just walk around today and save the aforementioned for after Danny's arrival, which is anticipated tomorrow afternoon. Two hours until the buffet….

Neil